surfer wiping out in the wave

Surfer’s thing nr 15 – lovely wipeouts

surfers thing number 15 wipeouts

Most wipeouts are hardly anything special or dangerous. Wipeout is more similar to a flying squirrel launching off the board. Certainly it looks funny. Because it is uncertain and unknown, it makes you kind of fall in love with them. You have to let yourself go. You can’t do anything about wipeouts. You just fall. Free fall. So we just embrace them.